Nissan has released quite a few revisions it's ECU's. Only a few can be chipped without the use of a daughterboard. some of the 91-93's are 8 bit. the rest are all 16 bit. that doesent mean you cannot chip a 16 bit. you just have to go about it at a different approach.

here's the moment of truth.

if your ecu looks like this with the rom chip, you're okay, no modifications are needed.

if your ecu does not have a EPROM chip and looks like this:

then you need to purchase a daughterboard for this to work. I have 200 on the way from hong kong, but they won't be here for a few weeks. if you need it faster than that you can go to http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/daughterboards.shtml and have one right away for 65 dollars shipped.
or you can wait and i'll have them for about 30-35. when you get the daugherboard, you just put the chip on it and your ecu will read it.

you're pretty much screwed, you need a new ECU to program. Nissan did this to stop you from modifying your car
all you gotta do is buy a new ECU for your car. like a 91-93 8 bit ECU as long as its for your engine (not your necessarily your car) it will work. and either install the eprom directly or a daughterboard. For the KA24DE the 1.8l 200sx ECU is 8bit and if you can find one on ebay, it is plug & play. for the infiniti J30, a nissan 300zx ECU from a 90-93 will work fine. as long as its for an AUTO as we are replacing the code on these units.

Congratulations on your E~FORMANCE ECU upgrade chip! we know you will be proud to use this.

1 Remove ECU
2 Take ECU APART
3 Resolder new ECU or EPROM SOCKET (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) [see included soldering instructions]
4 Put ECU Together
5 Reinstall ECU

1. Accessing and removing the ECU

The ECU is located at the right of the right side footwell. The "side" is determined as you sit in the car facing forward. (For cars in North America, the right side would be the passenger side)

You need to remove 2- "rivet" type fasteners of the right doorstep in order to get the kick panel out. To remove the plastic fasteners, unscrew the center part and pull out the other part. 2- metal screws and another "rivet" type fastener hold the kick panel.

Under the panel, is the ECU with its connector. Unfortunately, you have to access to the side of the ECU that is against the firewall. Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the ECU and gently turn it to get to the Model Selector and RED L.E.D. Don't unplug the ECU to do this!

Step 2 take ecu apart.

Now this is the hardest step, this is where you got to decide if you want to desolder the stock chip yourself or take it to a TV repair shop and have them do it.

Solder Sucker One of the biggest obstacles to tuning ECUs is the removing the stock EPROM. It must be removed cleanly with as little excessive heating of pc board as possible. I have tried a number of techniques and tools with little to moderate success. If you have a junk ECU give it a try and see how difficult it is. I have found that the majority of TV / VCR Repair shops have high quality internally-heated solder-sucking guns. For most of the people in that profession, desoldering a 27C256 EPROM is a joke and that is good news for us. I have become friends with a shop that works on broken car stereo equipment, and paying them to desolder the stock EPROM and solder in a socket is only $10 - $20. It takes them all of 9 minutes to complete the job and it is done perfectly! I have found this to be the best technique for a professional install and it works out well monetarily. If you really want to do this yourself, then invest in a high-quality solder sucker station. It will be a few hundred dollars at a minimum.

Also it is highly recommended that you purchase EPROM Socket. This is a little bridge that will be soldered in place of your stock EPROM. With the socket installed you can swap out EPROMs by hand within minutes. These are pretty darn cheap too. Most TV / VCR Repair shops will carry these but it is good to pick up a few good quality ones. I buy a lot of my small electronics from JDR Microdevices www.jdr.com and they have really good service. The kind of socket you will want is a 0.6 wide 28DIP. The part# on JDR is MPSOC-28 and they are about $1.00 each. Here is its web page > http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=GR-mpsoc or you can try your local electronics store.

Once you have the ECU out of the car, unbolt the top cover as such:

Next, carefully unbolt the small pc board and set it to the side as such:

This ECU has been previously tuned as you can tell by the EPROM with the ROMTUNE sticker on the top. This is the location of the stock EPROM and you need to remember it. When you go to the TV / VCR Repair shop they will not know what to pull so you must show them.

EPROMs are also directional like a lot of our cars tires and they must be inserted in the proper direction to function. Take a look at this pic:

Notice the notch on the EPROM. This is like the directional arrow on your tires. When the EPROM is properly placed in the ECU the notch will face inwards towards the center of the ECU.

The pic below is a properly socketed EPROM. Take a look at the notch on the top of the socket.

Sockets are not directional but their notch helps us to know what direction the EPROM should be inserted.

This is a EPROM socket installed in a stock ECU for fast removal between chips. it is recommended because you can remove your performance chip and put in the stock chip in a few minutes. for example: smog check. then reverse it back in a few minutes

hope you enjoy this mod. remember if you ever upgrade your injectors, nos or cam work you'll need a new custom EPROM. please email me at nosajton@gmail.com and i'll be happy to assist you.

Okay, so you want to do this all yourself? these are the tools you'll need. and remember

First the Tools I used and you should probably to.

In Order from Left to Right:
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Soldering Iron
- Solder pump
- Voltmeter
- Solder
- Solder Braid

The soldering Iron I used was a 120volt 45watt Craftsman.

First Step, With Ecu in hand.

Unscrew the four screws, one at each corner and then you will see this. some ecu's might have a daughterboard
that you have to unscrew first to get to the ROM

The Eprom Chip is in the bottom left corner and has numbers on it, heres a closer view.

Next Remove the bottom cover that is held on just like the top. Then you will see this.

The pins of the chip are located in the bottom right corner and in this view they are in the red circle.

Since I had only de-soldered a couple things at school, I figured I would use the internet to my advantage. A search revealed a good link on de-soldering. I basicly followed the link, but the chip didn't just fall out.

The de-soldering tutorial is located at the link: http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/desolderpix.htm

The way I got the chip to come out was a big mistake on my part. I will never do it again, I risked ruining an ECU. DO NOT PRY UP USING THE BOARD AS A LEVER WITH A SCREW DRIVER. By doing this I chipped the board, but I got lucky and there where no wires running where it happened. After that I used the screw with a lot of patience and used the sides of the ECU as a leverage point. This seemed to work real well until I got the chip out.

When I looked at the chip I had realized I had moved to quick and pulled a wire up off the board. This sucked I thought I had just wasted my money, but I traced the wire to a solder point and lucky for me it the nearest one did not connect to anything. The only real way to know if I messed anything up to put the ecu in a running car

A couples things to remeber:

1. DO NOT HURRY
2. BE PATIENT

The final step is putting in a 28 pin socket, make the half-moon at the top lines up with the half-moon on the board. Put it in and begin to solder. I used solder that was too big, I recommend a smaller size. To solder, place the iron on the pin, solder on the iron. When it heats up it will slide down the iron and onto the pin to fill in the hole.

Now heres my final result, to check and make sure all of my connections would still good. I went through with the voltmeter to check to see if the connections were still connected. I put the red probe in the socket and used the black to put on the nearest solder point of the path of the wire. All of mine checked out good. The final test will be putting it in a car.

that is the piece of wire connecting the solder point i messed up. hopefully you wont have to do this.

like i said before, it takes a lot of patience to do it yourself. i recommend you spend the $10-20 dollars and take it to a TV repair shop. with that said, i give you enough information here to do it yourself. we have hundreds of tuners who have all done it themselves just this this tutorial.